Check if a car has
been written off.
Check recorded accident and write-off history, including Cat S and Cat N, alongside finance, stolen status and mileage in one complete car history report.
Included in your report:
- Write-off markers
- Cat S / N / C / D
- Outstanding finance
- Stolen status
- Mileage issues
- MOT history
See the write-off history in your report.
This is how a recorded write-off marker appears: the category, when it was recorded, and what it means.
Write-off markers
Insurance total-loss records
Example data shown. Your report will show the recorded write-off history for the reg you check.
What a write-off check shows you.
A recorded write-off is not automatically a reason to walk away. What matters is the detail behind it.
The recorded category
Cat S, Cat N, or the older Cat C and Cat D markers, where an insurer recorded one.
The type of damage
Whether the damage was structural or non-structural, which is what the category is really telling you.
When it was recorded
The date the insurer wrote the car off, so you can read the MOT history around it.
How to tell if a car has been written off.
You usually cannot tell from photos or a quick look. Repairs can hide serious damage, and sellers do not always mention it. The reliable way is to check the registration against insurance records, run as part of a full car history check. The category you get back is the starting point, not the verdict.
Cat S
Structural damage, such as the chassis, subframe or crumple zones. The car can be repaired and returned to the road, so the question is how well that was done.
Cat N
Non-structural damage, such as panels, lights, electrics or interior. Often cosmetic, though it can still be significant depending on what was affected.
Cat C and Cat D
Older markers still seen on pre-2017 records. They sorted write-offs by repair cost rather than damage type, so treat Cat D as Cat D history, not as Cat N.
What do Cat S and Cat N mean for you?
The aim is not to rule out every recorded car, but to understand the type of damage and price the risk accordingly. For a fuller buyer guide, read our Cat S and Cat N cars explained article.
Check the write-off history in seconds.
Enter the registration to see the recorded accident and write-off history alongside the rest of the car's record.
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Should you buy a Cat S car?
Cat S means an insurer recorded structural damage: the chassis, subframe, crumple zones or pillars. Such a car can be repaired to a roadworthy standard, and many are. But the category only tells you what was damaged. It says nothing about how well the car was put back together, and that is what decides whether the price is a fair reflection of the history.
Ask for the repair evidence
Invoices, photographs of the original damage, and the name of the body shop that did the work. A documented professional repair is a completely different proposition from "a mate sorted it".
Have it inspected independently
Structural alignment and weld quality cannot be judged from the paintwork or a test drive. On a Cat S car, an independent inspection is worth treating as part of the purchase price.
Remember what structure is for
Crumple zones are engineered to deform in a precise way. A shell that was straightened poorly may not perform as the original design intended in a future collision. That is why Cat S warrants more care than Cat N.
Should you buy a Cat N car?
Cat N means the damage was non-structural: panels, lights, glass, electrics, interior or mechanical parts. Plenty of Cat N cars were written off on economics rather than severity, because a cheap car with a crumpled bumper and a broken headlight can cost more to fix at insurer repair rates than the car is worth. That makes Cat N the category most likely to represent good value, and the one buyers scrutinise least.
Non-structural is not the same as trivial
The same category covers a scuffed bumper and a flood-damaged wiring loom. Water and electrical damage in particular can cause faults that surface for years. Ask what was actually damaged, not just what category it was given.
Check the repair actually happened
A Cat N car can be sold on without ever being properly fixed. Look for mismatched panel gaps, overspray under the bonnet, filler along the seams, and a fresh respray on a car far too young to need one.
Read the MOT history around the date
Advisories or failures that begin appearing shortly after the write-off was recorded (alignment, suspension, corrosion) are worth taking seriously. They may indicate the repair did not go as well as the seller suggests.
How much less is a Cat S or Cat N car worth?
There is no official discount table, and any figure quoted is rough guidance rather than a valuation. As a rough starting point for a negotiation, buyers commonly expect somewhere around 20–30% off a clean-history equivalent for Cat N, and 30–40% or more for Cat S. The actual figure depends on the car, the damage and the quality of the evidence behind the repair.
What moves the discount
Cat S is marked down harder than Cat N because structural work carries more doubt. Documented repairs by a reputable body shop narrow the gap; missing paperwork widens it. And on a desirable model in short supply, the market simply forgives less.
What the discount costs you later
The marker stays with the car for life, so you inherit it. When you sell, the next buyer will want the same discount you had, on a car that is now older. The saving is only genuinely yours if you keep the car for years rather than months.
Two costs are easy to overlook. Some insurers load the premium on a written-off car, or decline to cover it at all, so it is worth getting real quotes with the category disclosed. Some lenders will not finance one, and dealers often reduce a part-exchange offer or refuse the car outright. Once those are factored in, the headline saving can look rather different.
What else your report checks at the same time.
Accident history is one of several things that can go wrong on a used car, and one registration answers all of them at once. Every Carpeep report runs the full set.
Accident and write-off history
Recorded insurance write-off markers and the category behind them, where an insurer recorded one.
Outstanding finance
Whether a lender still has a credit agreement recorded against the car.
Stolen status
Whether a recorded stolen marker is linked to the vehicle in UK police records.
Mileage and MOT history
Every recorded MOT reading, checked for mileage discrepancies, plus advisories and failures.
A write-off marker is only half the picture.
A car can have no accident history at all and still be a poor buy. It might be carrying unsettled finance, a stolen marker or a rolled-back odometer. That is why Carpeep does not sell an accident check on its own. One registration, one complete car history report, and the whole picture arrives together.
Where our data comes from.
Always from official records. We do not create, edit or estimate any data.
DVLA
Registration, keeper history, import/export status and vehicle specifications.
DVSA
Full MOT test history including results, advisories and mileage at each test.
Insurance industry records
Recorded write-off markers, including Cat S and Cat N, following total loss assessments.
UK finance lenders
Outstanding finance agreements including HP, PCP and conditional sale records.
Police stolen vehicle records
Stolen vehicle markers from UK police databases, checked against the registration and VIN.
Vehicle identity checks
VIN and registration cross-referenced to flag plate changes, cloning or identity mismatches.
Write-Off Check FAQs
What is a write-off check?
A write-off check shows whether a vehicle has been recorded as an insurance write-off before you buy it.
Why is checking write-off history important?
It helps you spot serious vehicle history that could affect safety, value and how confident you feel about the purchase.
How do I know if a car has been written off?
The reliable way is to check the registration against insurance records. A full car check shows if recorded write-off history is found.
Does a write-off check show every accident?
No. A write-off check shows recorded insurance write-off history. It should not be treated as proof of every accident or repair a car has ever had.
Can I tell if a car has been in a crash just by looking at it?
Not reliably. Repairs can hide damage, which is why checking the history is important before you buy.
Can a written-off car go back on the road?
Yes. Some written-off cars return to the road, which is why checking the history before you buy is important.
What does Cat S mean?
Cat S means the car had structural damage and may have returned to the road after repair.
What does Cat N mean?
Cat N means the car had non-structural damage, such as electrical or cosmetic damage, and may have returned to the road after repair.
What does Cat D mean?
Cat D is an older write-off marker for less severe damage where repair costs were below the vehicle value. Treat Cat D as Cat D history. Do not assume it is the same as Cat N.
Should I run a write-off check before paying a deposit?
Yes. Run the check before you pay a deposit, transfer money or travel to see the car so you can spot problems early.
Which is worse, Cat S or Cat N?
Cat S is the more serious of the two: it means an insurer recorded structural damage. Cat N means the damage was non-structural. But category alone does not tell you severity, because a badly repaired Cat N car can be a worse buy than a properly repaired Cat S one. What was damaged, and how well it was fixed, matters more than the letter.
Should I buy a Cat S car?
You can, but only with evidence. Ask for repair invoices, photographs of the original damage and the name of the body shop, then pay for an independent inspection that checks structural alignment and weld quality. Structural repairs cannot be judged from the paintwork.
Should I buy a Cat N car?
Often yes. Cat N is the mildest category and many were recorded on economics rather than severity. Just do not assume non-structural means trivial: the same category covers a scuffed bumper and a flood-damaged wiring loom. Ask what was damaged, confirm the repair happened, and read the MOT history around the write-off date.
How much less is a Cat S or Cat N car worth?
There is no official discount table. As a rule of thumb, buyers commonly expect around 20–30% off a clean-history equivalent for Cat N, and 30–40% or more for Cat S, depending on the car, the damage and the repair evidence. The marker stays with the car for life, so you inherit the same discount when you sell.
Don't buy a car you haven't checked.
Enter the reg to see the recorded accident and write-off history, finance, stolen status and mileage in one report.
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